by Tanyo Ravicz EJ Li The first time I rafted alone through the notorious Whale Passage on the north coast of Kodiak Island, I celebrated being alive by tying up at Port Bailey Cannery and buying a pack of Camel Lights for $2.70. I had already quit smoking cigarettes but I made an exception. At the cannery store I asked Tammy — she was broke and up from Montana — what the heck was going on. Why were the cannery workers twiddling their thumbs? “Everybody’s sitting around like